The swell we've been waiting for has now arrived, we're lucky to have ventured out and survived. There was so much water just moving around, the current was swift and mostly westward-bound, the whitewash it piled to nearly man-height, obscuring the sets and obstructing the sight. I dare say I will take the next few days off, stay far from the building peaks and plunging troughs, until lord Baruna has vented his rage and wrangled his monsters back into their cage.
© americanifesto / 場黑麥
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