It's not just for any old wavelength we'll settle; we seek out the big ones that punish our mettle that drag us and tumble us into the deep with harsh pulling suction and swift faces steep. Between them we float bobble swim through the sea to wherever our chances greatest may be to snatch fleeting glory from a swollen peak – our serious business is not for the meek. There's crab sea-lice jellie trash urchin and shark, there's thunderstorm board-rash log impending dark, there's lobster-net newbie and lightning-strike too, there's shattered plank sunburn and discarded shoe. And still we will go out and enter the churn because deep within us a passion does burn for danger excitement and warm muggy climes; we dream of the perfect wave all waking times.
© americanifesto / 場黑麥
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